Fancy dressing: menswear label Helbers is a balance between rough and refined
Paul Helbers might not be a household name in fashion (yet), but the seasoned designer certainly has the clout to cut it on the main stage. Previously the head menswear designer at Louis Vuitton, and at Maison Martin Margiela before that, Helbers struck out on his own earlier this year, presenting his debut menswear collection in January.
Launched to much acclaim, Helbers’ eponymous line (seen here) merges the sacred principles of utility and craftsmanship to a fine degree. The tightly edited collection is comprised of contemporary, yet classically styled essentials that display thoughtful details, use clever materials and offer an artisanal touch that together creates an ideal men’s wardrobe.
Inspired by Bela Lugosi, classic Robert Rauschenberg photographs and early Irving Penn portraits of TS Eliot and Bernstein, Helbers’ founding collection is a modern articulation of immaculate dressing that mixes in touches of everyday style.
‘[The concept for the label is] unpolished elegance. [This is] a wardrobe combining historic masculinity with updated technology that’s trying to find a balance between rough and refined,’ the designers states. ‘I wanted to create essentials that are beyond basic, it’s fashion for everyday. The collection is built on studied proportions and durability. There is a cult of lightness and purity, simplicity combined with sophistication.’
To this end, the inaugural collection includes wool cashmere joggers with matte nylon knee patches, lightweight semi-canvassed blazers in wool, silk and linen tweed, cashmere flannel cardigan jackets, waterproof unconstructed coats and calfskin Derby shoes to complete the polished, yet languid silhouettes. The development and use of novel fabrics was key to this.
‘We treated some cashmere silk alpaca blends on the yarn to create rich and soft tweeds for Cromby’s that are water-resistant. Wool alpaca jerseys were developed for double-breasted jackets and matching chinos to create the new tracksuit,’ explains Helbers.
He adds, ‘you could say that Helbers is somewhere in between the worn-in masculinity of Margiela and the undertow of decadent playfulness in Vuitton.’
INFORMATION
Helbers is now available on Mr. Porter. For more details, please visit the label’s website
Pei-Ru Keh is the US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru has held various titles at Wallpaper* since she joined in 2007. She currently reports on design, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru has taken a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars and actively seeks out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
International African American Museum celebrates life and memory on 'hallowed ground'
The International African American Museum opens in Charleston, USA, acknowledging 'hallowed ground' and celebrating life and memory
By Ellie Stathaki • Published
-
Discover solid gold piercing jewellery from Astrid & Miyu
Astrid & Miyu introduces solid gold piercing jewellery to its core collection
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
CAZA’s Santuario de La Salle aims to ‘connect people to place and heritage’
CAZA’s Santuario de La Salle church pushes the boundaries of traditional religious design at the De La Salle University campus in the Philippines’ Biñan City
By Nana Ama Owusu-Ansah • Published
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2024: Givenchy to Dior
The Wallpaper* highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2024, from Matthew M Williams’ exploration of the school uniform at Givenchy to five years of Kim Jones at Dior
By Jack Moss • Last updated
-
Palace of Versailles opens a garden dedicated to perfume-making plants
The Palace of Versailles and perfumer Francis Kurkdjian have created an astonishing tribute to the palace’s fragrance-making history
By Mary Cleary • Published
-
New York Fashion Week S/S 2023: Proenza Schouler to Tom Ford
From a raft of homegrown talent to star-studded international imports, Wallpaper* presents the highlights of New York Fashion Week S/S 2023, reported by our editors in the city
By Jack Moss • Last updated
-
Colourful men’s cardigans to brighten your spring wardrobe
From Missoni to Jil Sander, add a welcome jolt of colour to the season ahead with our edit of crafty, kaleidoscopic cardigans
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Ten c champions hybrid design at Pitti Uomo 101
Meanings and materials collide at Fortezza da Basso in Florence, where Italian performance wear specialist Ten c presents its hybrid design-inspired A/W 2022 collection
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Marni Market arrives at Matchesfashion in Mayfair
Matchesfashion is offering first access to its new Marni Market to Wallpaper* readers
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Tailored suits: make a style statement in a smart jacket
Smarten up your act with a selection of elegant men's jackets, whether your err towards check, pinstripe or tuxedo for your tailored suit
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated
-
Rokh A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins • Last updated